Refuge de Leschaux
The place
Staffed FFCAM refuge in the Mont-Blanc massif (Chamonix, Haute-Savoie), at 2,447 m altitude above the moraine of the Leschaux glacier. A legendary starting point for the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. Capacity of 20 places in season and 12 places outside staffed periods. Staffed from mid-June to mid-September, winter shelter accessible year-round. Full facilities in season: duvets, sheet rental, sinks, showers, running water, crockery, equipped kitchen, heating, wifi, meeting room, restaurant, power outlets, packed-lunch room, indoor toilets; wheelchair accessible, pets welcome. Warden: Chloé Laget.
Getting there
Point de départ unique : gare d'arrivée du téléphérique du Montenvers (1915 m). Itinéraire estival (3h30-4h00, +540 m / -200 m) : accès glaciaire technique nécessitant crampons ou mini-crampons, baudrier. Depuis le parking, suivre la vire des guides et descendre sur la Mer de Glace par les échelles, remonter le glacier, pénétrer dans la moraine rive droite au niveau d'un bidon rouge (sentier du Couvercle), rejoindre le glacier de Leschaux puis le remonter rive droite jusqu'aux échelles.
The setting
Au cœur du massif du Mont-Blanc, au-dessus de la moraine du glacier de Leschaux, à 2447 m d'altitude (Chamonix). Le refuge est le point de départ idéal vers la mythique face nord des Grandes Jorasses. Terrasse ensoleillée offrant un panorama d'exception au coucher de soleil. Site loin de la foule, au cœur du massif.
A bit of history
#### History of Refuge de Leschaux Origins and Changes: Refuge de Leschaux, first built in 1929 thanks to a donation from Dr Étienne May, has undergone significant changes since its inauguration. Positioned in the shadow of the Aiguille Pierre Joseph, it was enlarged in 1934 before being swept away by an avalanche in 1954. A new structure, originally planned for a different summit, was erected in 1967 by the Belgian Alpine Club and handed over to the Paris-Chamonix section of the French Alpine Club, undergoing an extension in 2003. #### Location and Access Route Refuge Accessibility: Refuge de Leschaux sits at 2,431 metres altitude in the Haute-Savoie department, in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. Owned by the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc section of the French Alpine Club, it is traditionally the base camp for tackling the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. Approach Route: To reach it, climbers must navigate from Montenvers across the Mer de Glace then the Leschaux glacier, an expedition that requires care and preparation. #### Features and Architectural Innovation Refuge Design: Initially designed to withstand harsh mountain conditions, the modern 1967 version, reworked in 2003, offers a haven for climbers in this demanding terrain. #### Activities and Climbing Routes Expedition Starting Points: Refuge de Leschaux is the starting point of choice for ascents of the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, an undertaking that attracts climbers from around the world eager for challenge and adventure. #### Awards and Mentions Recognition: Although the text does not mention specific awards, the historic importance and role of the refuge in the mountaineering world give it a certain distinction. #### Cultural Depictions The Refuge in Fiction: The name of Refuge de Leschaux is immortalised in the novel "Retour à la montagne" by Roger Frison-Roche, featuring Brigitte in the role of warden. #### Documentation and Sources For more details on the history and role of Refuge de Leschaux in the ascents of the Grandes Jorasses: Lucien Devies and Gino Buscaini, "Guide Vallot. La chaîne du Mont Blanc IV: Grandes Jorasses, Géant Rochefort, Leschaux, Talèfre", Arthaud, 1979. #### Further Resources Useful Links: [Official refuge page](https://www.chamonix.com/refuge-de-leschaux,18-467732,fr.html) [Information on the Chamonix Alpine Club](https://www.clubalpinchamonix.com/)
A word from the warden
« Bonjour ! Bienvenue au refuge de Leschaux. Chloé vous accueille pour passer un agréable moment, dans un petit coin de paradis. Avec en toile de fond la magnifique face nord des Grandes Jorasses, passez un moment hors du temps. Quelque soit votre niveau, Chloé sera ravi de partager avec vous ses petits secrets […] Le refuge est aussi un point de départ stratégique pour de nombreuses courses d'alpinisme. Là-haut dans la montagne, Chloé et son chat Jorasse vous attendent ! » — Chloé Laget, gardienne.
