Bivacco Città di Luino

The place

Sleeping capacity: 10. Spaces with mattress: 10. Small metal structure, painted yellow and blue. -No water nearby, except as snow -mattresses + blankets -gas stove (but beware, they tend to get removed) -acceptable insulation (altitude...) From the Passo (col) di Monte Moro, the route heads west, mostly along the north side of the border ridge and involving travel on glaciers above 3000 m altitude, roughly parallel to the direction the crevasses open. Roping up and constant vigilance are essential! Past the Punte Orientale (3478 m) and Occidentale (3562 m) of Roffel, still climbing gently and steadily in a traverse, the slopes steepen toward the north; after rounding a rocky spur descending from the Punta Occidentale, you must gradually (mind the bergschrund) approach the border ridge to reach a saddle (3517 m), from which you follow the ridge itself to find the shelter tucked among the rocks on the left (south) flank, about 80 m from the summit of the Schwarzhorn. A technically modest route (PD), but long (about 7 km, allow a good 5h30/6h), which may involve significant detours depending on crevasse conditions. From the [->2597] the approach is much shorter (2h30/3h), but involves rock climbing on the ribs and spurs flanking the Roffel glacier to the west (sections of II+/III+, AD), to reach a small shoulder northeast of the lowest dip of the Nuovo (Neue) Weisstor pass, from where you skirt north-northeast (crevasses) around the west side of the border ridge to reach, via névés, the summit of the Schwarzhorn, descending its east ridge to find the shelter. CAI, Luino section. Contact: Tel. +39 0332 511101, e-mail: cailuino@cailuino.it